FASHION EAST. London, 18/09/11

Bringing the best in new British talent onto the industry’s radar Lulu Kennedy’s handpicked selection of designers showing at Fashion East this season presented an array of elegant, finished and wearable collections

Opening yesterday’s catwalk presentation at Mayfair’s The Haunch of Venice, Portuguese womenswear design duo Marques’ Almeida bravely took the concept of double denim to dizzying new heights. Developing their collection since i-D online profiled them earlier in the year, they teamed distressed, ripped and frayed ocean blue denims with heavy layers and leg-warmers. An understated street-style elegance developed throughout the label’s multi-faceted collection, which felt both original and relaxed. One to watch.

marquesalmeida.com

Next up: fash pack fave, RCA graduate James Long, who dispatched his gang of blonde bombshells showing a collection of luxe hard knits, tough leather and two piece outfits. Intricately decorated by layered sequins, luxurious snakeskin patterns and sheers, James took the much lauded aspects of his previous collections and developed them with brave direction, further establishing the signature style and details his aesthetic is becoming recognised for. Designing for a powerful women, with a focussed mind and brave ideals, James Long is sexually empowering women without over exposing skin!

jameslonguk.com

Ending the afternoon’s Eastern treats, Central Saint Martins graduate Maarten van der Horst got totally tropical with his Hawaiian-style print shirts, capri trousers and bermuda shorts. Providing a much welcome escape from the looming clouds which towered ahead, the eye popping blues, yellows and greens prominent throughout felt exciting, light-hearted and unconventional. Married with intimately embroidered, thrift store sourced petticoats his man-size, loose-fitting garments floated fluidly down the runway with a waft of irony, rewarded generously by the audience!

maartenvanderhorst.com

A successful eighteenth consecutive season commanding the catwalk, Fashion East remains at the forefront of fashion, fronting the most up-coming and conceptually challenging.

Text: Milly McMahon

Back to SS12

MARK FAST. London, 19/09/11

Showing a mirage-allous, eye popping array of tropically inspired tones and colours, Mark Fast’s refined and divine SS12 collection was centred around movement and form. Bold, exciting and fresh, a direct reflection of Mark’s attitude right now, each piece emulated the motion of a sandstorm with delicate consideration. Embellished with gold fringing and feather printed neoprene, oranges, pinks, yellows and golds sashayed fluidly down the runway to the graceful and ghostly sounds of Gil Scott Heron and The Knife. Casting a diverse array of models, some girls fronted feminine curves whilst others appeared more elfin and boyish, with the intention of demonstrating the versatility his label allows.

Fast told i-D online: “The type of women who wear my work are chameleons, my clothes work on many different types of women.” Citing Jen Brill as his muse, the Canadian born, London based designer envisioned a poetic narrative, which spawned the starting point for this collection. Progressing and diversifying the trademark aesthetic Fast has become know for, whilst remaining true to the routes by which he has established his award winning label, next season is all about the Fast lane!

i-D online caught up with him post-show…

What was the starting point for the collection? It’s based on the idea of a woman walking through the desert, things that she sees on the way, mirages.

What was the primary reference for that? It was a David Lachapelle photo, it’s a picture of Jesus in front of grafitti with fish and a bunch of people in the photo.

Is there a particular woman who’s inspiring you right now? Jen Brill, from New York. Her attitude and her intelligence is quite stunning.

What’s next for you now? Dinner with my family!

markfast.net

DANIELLE SCUTT. London, 20/09/11

Fiercely commanding her time dominating the runway at this year’s LFW, Danielle Scutt adorned her show invite with a poignant message, a single raised finger. Fronting the kind of ‘fuck-off’ attitude she has brazenly exuded from even the early days, this season the London born and based CSM graduate presented an outstanding collection entitled ‘Thug-life’. Directly referencing subculture uniforms from the punk/mod scene and refining this rough aesthetic with heels and polished hair and make-up, Danielle intelligently created a synergy between self-expression and style.

Tartans, distressed, bleached denims, braces, accentuated collars, chain-mail-style slips and Marijuana emblazoned t-shirts trooped down the catwalk in force. Tatiana Poli and Charlotte Free embodied the collection’s beautiful and bold aesthetic. A quintessentially British designer with aptitude, depth and conviction, Danielle does what she loves unlike any other, uncompromising in her vision and fierce in her attitude, she creates clothes that want to be worn and torn, no messin’.

daniellescutt.com

Text: Milly McMahon
Photography: Mitchell Sams

Back to SS12

Mac Miller - Senior Skip Day

English Frank

Gemma Cairney Presents: Project F

Delilah - Go [RAK Session]

mav sabre's new gurrrl.

That voice, man


Go' is taken from the new Go EP by Delilah. Find it on iTunes here:
http://atlre.co.uk/oJdj7y

For a free download of 'Breathe' (Original Version) visit:
http://on.fb.me/qPI32H

Read All About It (feat. Emeli Sande) Official Video

Read All About It' (ft Emeli Sandé) is released on Sunday 23rd October and is the first single from Pro Green's second album 'At Your Inconvenience' out October 31st.

Preorder 'At Your Inconvenience' here: http://bit.ly/ProGreenInconvenience

Music video by Professor Green performing Read All About It (feat. Emeli Sande). (C) 2011

Bestival Blow Out

Travelling uphill, down-dale, sailing the seven seas and braving rain-ridden, gale force winds, this year’s Bestival crowds rounded off the festival season with a serious dose of anarchy, havoc and heavy fun.

Situated in some far flung fields deep in the Isle of Wight, Bestival challenges its crowds to travel far, in order to discover the ultimate party. Fronting a jaw dropping, once in a life time array of headlining bands and artists, the boundary pushing movers and shakers behind this dress up box boutique festival somehow managed to book Björk, The Cure, Tom Vek and fatBoy Slim for 2011. Squaring up to the crowds, bringing hard-core endurance to the table, outlandish and mind bending experiences mixed up each day’s activities to precipitate a perpetually warped party.

Saturday is the designated dress up day of Rock Stars, Pop Stars & Divas, which gives kids, adults, dogs, toddlers and OAPs alike the excuse to look odd. Our national treasure, Amy Winehouse proved a popular choice amongst the crowds, along with Wayne and Garth of the epic 90s American film trilogy and Adam Ant. Annie Mac took to The Big Top stage early in the weekend, playing dance master to packed out audiences who moved non-stop in high anticipation of Diplo, Carte Blanche, Fake Blood, L-Vis 1990, Toddla T and Ms Dynamite. The perfectly proportioned Maya Jane Coles killed it at the Arcadia, whilst Julio Bashmore played a secret gig with Joy Orbison, dropping Eats Everything: Entrance song to an epic, up-rising from the uncontainable crowd. The omnipresent Boiler Room was also about, down at the Red Bull stage, hosting Jackmaster, Spencer, Oneman Deadboy Apple Pips and Star Slinger, before winding the whole thing down with OneOhTrix Point Neva.

Antics weren’t always off the scale however, mellowing things out over at the acoustic stages, Sailor Jerry’s staged Dutch Uncles, Mazes, Tribes, Young Rebel Set, Asteroids, The Growlers and Skinny Lister who all did their more melodic thang, live and loud. Tattoos happened live on site and the raucous, fall down, eye watering entertainment packed out the area with furious throttle. Catching two ticks with island records’ latest signing, i-D online sat down with the less seasoned festival goer Alex Winstone to chat about why us Brits do it way big.

How are you finding Bestival, is it the perfect end to the summer? This is kind of my first taste of festivals. We’ve played about five so far and just got back from one in Germany which was in a disused airport which was cool.

What was the vibe like down on site? What I love about English festivals is that they’re constant. In America there are certain festivals that happen every year but they’re across the country. This is my favourite kind of festival because everybody seems very uninhibited and having fun.

What are you working on at the moment? I signed to Island Records earlier this year and it’s been great as they’ve let me do everything I’ve wanted to do. I’m a huge fan of documentaries and have started to make my own films about travelling and meeting different people from different cities.

Do you have any tattoos? I don’t have any tattoos myself but I love going to watch my friends have them done. I’m a chicken.

With Special Thanks to Sailor Jerry’s.

bestival.net

Text: Milly McMahon

Sandman - No Prisoners

BLNK 001: Sandman - No Prisoners by Blank Mind

Mount Kimbie: Carbonated

Sonic Router Mix #99 Ifan Dafydd

i-D Presents: OH MY!

Wednesday 14th September
6PM – 7:30PM
i-D NOW
The Red Gallery
Rivington Street
EC2A

Limited tickets are available for ‘i-D Presents: Oh My!’, please email web@i-Dmagazine.co.uk with subject ‘i-D Presents: Oh My!‘ if you are interested in attending. Free tickets will be available on a first-come, first-served basis and successful applicants will be notified by email.

ohmyofficial.com
facebook.com/ohmyofficial
twitter.com/ohmyofficial

Be sure to keep one eye glued to i-Donline.com and our Facebook, Twitter (#iDNOW) and Tumblr for all the latest.

Cooly G

Brixton-born producer Cooly G is riding high on the hype surrounding her tribal, deep house sound.She has a new album coming out on Hyperdub.

Cooly has previously released music through her own label, the 'Dub Organizer' volumes. Not only do her dark and techy beats sound like no one else's, but her sexy vocals subtly turn up the heat while maintaining a totally cool vibe.

LOVE

Highlights of Bestival

Annie Mac Presents:

Carte Blanche - The Molecules by Annie Mac Presents

The Spectrum: A Month of Chromophilia

THE SPECTRUM: A Month Of Chromophilia from LEISURE on Vimeo.

For this month, Leisure will begin with the colour red: Arsenal, blood and Ferraris. We’ll work our way through the spectrum, ending with violet, that purply-pink: Hazelnut Quality Street, Lavender and Austin TX. So join us on our Technicolor ride across the Fat Willy’s Surf Shack logo, through Newton’s Latin-heavy Opticks and his 17^th century prisms, Paul Klee’s mastering of trichromaticism, synesthesiacs seeing blue in the number 3, OMG triple rainbows, pigmentation, saturation and light separation.

leisureonly.com

Jaymo & Andy George: Midnight

Exclusive Timber Timbre Mixtape

Mika brings the brains, Simon has heart and Taylor bares his soul. Timber Timbre make dark, devilish music designed and directed by the red right hand.

Listen here

They first met five years ago, coming from different creative communities but jamming the same kind of melodious magic. Each identified with the other’s individual sound and together they became lonesome soul trio, Timber Timbre. Engineered in Montreal, by Kees Dekker and Grammy winner Mark Lawson under the cover of a converted church studio, Creep on Creepin’ On is the band’s fourth album, a ten track compendium of shady melodramatic hymns, sinisterly woven together with devious intent to terrify and intrigue. Nominated for a Polaris Prize, this inspired slice of creepy genius took just seven weeks in total to produce and features instrumentals from acclaimed pianist Mathieu Charbonneau and saxophonist Colin Stetson.

Naming their reclusive, three man band ‘Timber Timbre’ after a significant, but humble wooden-framed cabin set in the wooded outskirts of Bobcaygeon, Ontario, the essence of T & T’s twisted gospel, blues rooted sound is intrinsically linked to their love of writing and playing music. Teaching themselves to play a plethora of different instruments from the viola to the lapstool, autoharp and many other odd precessional objects, if it makes an interesting sound Taylor, Simon and Mika will be be able to master it. Brandishing aptitude, ability and an epic sense of originality, the abundance of talent and fusion of cinematic sounds Timber Timbre create is unrivalled and unlike anything else about right now. i-D online caught up with the lads and lady to find out where they discovered their distinguished doo-wop beat feasts.

How do you describe the music you make? We make soul music. Dark soul and doo-wop.

Your sound is evocative and moving, how does it make you feel when you listen back? I never listen back to my own recordings, they are decidedly finished.

You have spoken openly about struggling with depression, do you find making music cathartic or can it drive you deeper into yourself? Yes, making music and work is cathartic. I think it’s beyond cathartic actually, as in fact it is necessary for survival.

How has making music changed you as a person? I think I’ve become a much more confident person, but also deeply paranoid and neurotic. Making music is a wonderful thing – my favourite thing to do. Touring and being a musician however, is another story.

What single track are you the most proud of and why? I don’t know how to pick a track. It’s like picking a favourite colour. I’m very proud of the record we made with Creep On Creepin’ On – I think it’s the best thing I’ve ever done. The title track works very well for me – the arrangement, the sounds and performances on that particular song are very satisfying.

Do you enjoy being on tour? Sometimes I really love being on tour. Mostly, I would rather be at home working on new music, rather than playing old music over and over again.

What is your happiest memory made whilst on tour? Happiest recent tour memory was in Dudingen, CH after a very sweaty show at Bad Bonn, we made our way to a nearby beach and swam until 4 in morning below castles with beautiful Swiss people.

What new music are you into right now? Demdike Stare, Colin Stetson, Battles, Barr Brothers

Who are your top 5 artists of all time?
1. Roy Orbison
2. Otis Redding
3. Bernard Hermann
4. Nina Simone
5. Neil Young.

timbertimbre.com

Text: Milly McMahon

Paul Bench

Lesson No.7 (Tom Vek's Tripping Mix)

Lesson No.7 (Tom Vek's Tripping Mix) by clockopera

Lesson No. 7 released on 03 October 2011 on Moshi Moshi / Island Records.

Released by: moshi moshi music
Release/catalogue number: CLOCK001
Release date: Oct 3, 2011

Rizzle Kicks - When I Was A Youngster

WHEN I WAS A YOUNGSTER'

Having just returned from an epic second stint at Ibiza Rocks supporting The Streets - they were invited back just 5 weeks after their debut performance supporting Dizzee Rascal - Rizzle Kicks have now launched the brand new video for next single 'When I Was A Youngster' - out 24th October.

Following their top 10 hit 'Down With The Trumpets', this is the second single from their forthcoming debut LP 'Stereo Typical', which will be released 31st October.

Club Papayyyyyyyyya!

Bringing the sun, sea and sand into the club, Papaya is the open-air, day to night party capital of Pag, putting Croatia on the map.

Ram packed full of semi-clad, fully hot girls, each flanked by throngs of bronzed boys on the look out for a new honey, the attitude down at Club Papaya is distinctly European. A far cry from the grimier, urban London nightlife scene, Croatia prides itself in providing its crowds with the utmost luxury clubbing experience. Playing host to a myriad of the world’s hottest DJs since opening eight years ago, Swedish House Mafia, Pete Tong, Paul Van Dyk, Calvin Harris, Chemical Bros and Fatboy Slim have all graced the venue’s open air stage for marathon, sell-out sets attracting crowds trekking from all over Europe.

Spilling out of this 32,000 square foot enclosure onto the beautiful, white sandy beaches of Zcre, the entertainment contained at Papaya is outstanding. If you’re not into plunging face down from the night sky on the end of a bungee rope into Papaya’s party goers, you might be more interested in raving-safe beneath the venue’s mainstage in the dance-pit. Or perhaps you might be down for a more relaxed Balearic-esque experience in the VIP area, lounging on the white leisure recliners with a casual glass of shampoo.

Catering to every kind of crowd, Club Papaya provides the laid back non-stop party that keeps on going, even when you can’t. With a number of high profile festivals planned for next year, Papaya’s popularity and reputation is coming up, fast. Shifting the focus from the world’s more established party capitals over to the less saturated, fresh shores of Pag, Croatia is both beautiful and bangin’.

papaya.com

Text: Milly McMahon
Photography: Ted Park