Ashish i-D Online

London, 22/02/11. Ashish.

Securing himself a solid position at the forefront of cutting edge British fashion, Ashish outdid himself again this season. Introducing a more androgynous, loose fitting aesthetic for A/W 11, menswear was blended with pyjama style fitted two piece tartans and tracksuits, accessorised with safety pins, cobweb-knee tights, brothel Creepers and slogan embossed unravelled knits. Celebrating an eclectic range of influences from Scottish heritage and the great British flag to more abstract trends, sequins, colour and pearls were seen in abundance. MM

ashish.co.uk

London, 22/02/11. Meadham Kirchhoff: i-D Online

London, 22/02/11. Meadham Kirchhoff

Now celebrating their 15th season showing at London Fashion Week, Central Saint Martin's trained womenswear design duo Meadham Kirchhoff brought some serious drama to the runways of their A/W 11 collection. Sending a mob of models down the runway to the sinister soundtrack of Psycho, the 24-piece collection descended upon the Topshop space, announcing a haunting, formal and ominous aesthetic. Exploring feminine ideals of sexuality through pleated pinafores, loose fitting cardigan jackets and suggestively lacy underskirts, the woman befitting of this season's theme was described by Benjamin Kirchhoff as one who 'didn't seek approval from men'. Collaborating with millinery wizard Nasir Mazhar, a dark witch-like theme was omnipresent, accentuated by the memorials constructed in the middle of the runway, commemorating the passing of the previous collection. This was a full moon moment for the two riot girl inspired fashion east originators. MM

Backstage Photography George Harvey

meadhamkirchhoff.com

The Outside Eye: i-D Online

Kentaro Takahishi, Ghurron Briscoe, Heidi Lee, Against Nature, Steven Lynch

Clockwise from left +

The Outside Eye

The Outside Eye are an introspective collective originating from New York, aspiring to reignite a passion for left of field talent in the next generation.

A retaliation against the cold robotic influence that consumerism has had upon our culture, this underground collective is spearheaded by Brooklynite, Ethan D. Miller. Known around town for his experimental cult parties, 'The Luminar of Zanzibar' at Broadway East and the 'Thrones of the Cavaliers', Ethan brings the party, DJ'ing his signature mixes of African funk, calypso, rocksteady, Turkish psyche and boogaloo. Appointing magazine editors, writers, musicians, painters, poets and artists from all over the world to front the scene, the group create happenings with the aim of awakening the lost art of social surrealism. Describing themselves as "a guild of true lovers in a heart-broken city", The Outside Eye are an optimistic reaction against commercialism.

i-D Online swapped numbers with the team's movers and shakers in East Village to find out what they're up to.

Kentaro Takahishi - Photographer
Working as a photographer and film development specialist in NYC (via Tokyo), Kentaro has helped build the visual ideas behind The Outside Eye. Using various special chemical processes that were used between the 30s and 50s, he is best known for his music photography of New York based bands and artists.

Steven Lynch - Piano Composer
Growing up in Woodstock and trained from birth by topnotch local musicians to become a piano composer, Steven is known to be 'an enlightener'. Releasing his first album 'Thunder and Sun' last year, Steven is currently working on his soon to be released follow-up.

Against Nature - Atelier and Suit Designers
Based in Manhattan's Lower East Side, Against Nature are designers Amber Doyle, Jake Mueser, Simon P. Jacobs and Ryan Matthew. Bringing their own unique vision, all come together to create one cohesive style, unique to the Against Nature atelier. Inspiration is pulled from a wide range of time periods while maintaining a sense of modernity and progression.

Ghurron Briscoe - Writer & cultural correspondant
Working as editor and correspondent for all Outside Eye ventures, Ghurron helps with gathering and organising all events and art projects. Ghurron is known around all venues and art scenes in Lower Manhattan as a promoter and funk inspired Outside Eye figure.

Heidi Lee - Hat Designer & Stylist
Philadelphia born American-Koren stylist Heidi Lee styles shoots for Cole Emde, Ryan Mikail, The Taqwacores and Neil Wilder.

theoutsideeye.com

Text Milly McMahon
Images Kentaro Takahishi

St martins Graduate Winners: Viktor Smedinge and Phoebe English

Viktor Smedigne

















Phoebe English

Watch The Interviews and shows here

Central Saint Martins is the foresight ticket. This season, 21 students presented their blood, sweat and tears, the results of which ranged from Phoebe English's intricately crafted hair and rubber Black Swan creations, reminiscent of Margiela's hair coats, to Viktor Smedinge's clean tailored lines and Kathleen Kye's black and white ghostbuster menswear. From the pedestrian to the sublime, each collection had identity, craft and concept. 21 students. 21 potential design stars. Place your bets.

i-D Online caught up with L'Oréal prizewinners Viktor Smedinge and Phoebe English (see film) post-show and Professor Louise Wilson (see text below) the day after to find out more.

Of the 21 students who showed last night, how many do you predict with be the next Christopher Kane, the next Jonathan Saunders? Louise Wilson: I don't, it's not my job. I'm in education. That's the people after me; the Sarah Mower's, Fashion East, all the layers that come after me. If I started thinking it was up to me to predict that, I should retire. Their success is a happy accident of them doing work that's relevant.

How do you guide someone without influencing their aesthetic too much? You're always working with their ideas. You're always guiding their idea, you're not generating an idea.

Have attitudes to British fashion changed in the span of your career? Are we more accepting now? The wonderful thing about Britain is that one minute it's up and one minute it's down and one minute it's up and one minute it's rubbish. It's bloody marvellous, we're all kept on our toes. There's not many countries who have produced a McQueen or a Hussein, in the time scale of the 90s. Then we've got a huge vanguard of young designers and there's no other country that has produced that.

*Film shows finale of several designers.

Text Sarah Raphael
Student Interviews Milly McMahon

The Neighbourhood Watch - Mini Cinema

i-D Online February playlist

February Mixtape 2011

February Mixtape by i-D

2011 is shaping up to look right sharp for new music. With a ship-load of fresh talent making its way over from the States right now and British grime garnering some serious international attention, the scene is an eclectic hive of sounds.

See more here

Are you sitting comfortably? Then hit play, hold your breath and open your mind. This month's i-D Online playlist has it all; from tropical to electronic; dub-rhyme to soft rock, a virtual smörgåsbord of decent beats. We kick things off with charming new vocal trillings from Jessie Ware, before diving headfirst into an old school Streets-inspired tune remixed by i-D's next big thing Zoo Kid, before jack-knifing fast in good dance directions courtesy of Mumdance. We like to keep you on your toes, so let us take you home the scenic route. We've jam-packed the tail end of our mixtape full of beautiful folk-inspired dream rhythms from Sea of Bees, Marcus Foster and Magic Bullets. And for the icing on the cake, Aaron Gregory is the artist with a sense of humour who put his magic touch to this month's mixtape artwork. If we've been blasting it at the i-D offices, it's on the list. Go on, get involved and tuck into these tunes, they have plenty of flavour.

Text Milly McMahon
Image Arran Gregory

Tropical, to electronic; dub-rhyme to soft rock, a smörgåsbord of decent beats. Click image for more.

February Mixtape 2011 +

Previous i-D Online Mixtapes

Remix Eliza Doolittle ft Aaron LaCrate - Rockin With The Best

Eliza Doolittle ft Aaron LaCrate - Rockin With The Best by lucidonline

i-D Online: Craft Spells Exclusive Mix-tape

i-ntroducing Craft Spells

Craft Spells are the romantic low-fi band that began in a bedroom and are now taking over the experimental European music scene.

See here

Hailing from the laid-back suburban landscapes of Stockton, California, this ethereally melodic project is the product of nostaligic pop artist Justin Vallesteros. Signed to niche record label Captured Tracks, Craft Spells focus heavily upon the visual importance of the way the music is presented. Regular posts on the projects blogspot work as an interactive scrap book, displaying abstract references and influences. Depicting classic scenes of medieval paintings and elegant works of architecture, Justin constructs each track they self-produce like a work of art, layering perfect, dream-like vocals over rhythmic washed-out beats and chords.

i-D Online caught up with Justin to chat about the debut single 'Party Talk'.

i-D Online caught up with Justin to chat about the debut single 'Party Talk'.

Craft Spells' top L.A bands of all time
1. Pavement
2. Weezer
3. Korn

Listen to the band's exclusive mixtape here.

myspace.com/craftspells

Text Milly McMahon

Regina is Suprema

D-i-Y Records: One Big Silence

Laying claim to the best new bands coming straight out of Canada 'One Big Silence' is the niche record label created by infamous thrash metal hero Mike 'Fucked up' Halichuk.

Championing an elegant ethos, putting simplicity first and eradicating any pretence or visions of grandeur, the acts One Big Silence look to sign need only prick the interest of label owner Mike Halichuck. Previously the lead guitarist of hardcore punk band Fucked Up, the controversial creative is infamous for thinking outside the box. This musical project is a refreshing attempt to establish underground talents driven by passion rather than profit. Starting out in the Summer of 2010 the label is relatively young but the hype surrounding it has perpetuated a succession of recent signings. Now representing electronic pop outfit Austra and reclusive dance act Diamond Rings, One Big Silence sporadically releases limited edition 12" singles from signed artists, a format which is rapidly loosing favour amongst the fast-moving digital generation. Holding on to values which are important but less recognised, Mike's work with his D-i-Y record label is helping to halt hard copy becoming obsolete.

Developing a management company, concert promotions agency and event website, Mike's pretty busy taking over the music industry, but made time to chat to i-D Online about how One Big Silence will be making a pretty massive noise in 2011.

When did you first begin the label? Last summer, but I had been thinking about it for a year before that. There were all these great bands coming out of one peer group in Toronto, with no good labels in the city to support them.

Why did you decide to name the label One Big Silence? It comes from a Rudyard Kipling short story.

What distinguishes One Big Silence from other labels? Musically, Canada is a really small place and lots of labels have a very small-time mentality. Labels usually restrict themselves to just working within one small group or territory and don't have broad experience. The industry is kind of petty here - everyone seems to have a chip on their shoulder in Canada. I'm not trying to get ahead or even make money, just trying to put out cool 12" singles for my friends.

How do you discover the new talent you sign? The bands come out of the scene of people I know. Starting out I didn't have any bands approaching me, so it was just stuff I was personally familiar with.

Who are your strongest musical influences and references? Well so far the label has all been dance orientated. I don't really want to have an eclectic label, I just want to focus on one style. So we obviously reference 12" dance culture, even though it doesn't exist as such with this kind of music, it's still fun to release 12"s with remixes and pretend someone in Chicago is playing them in 1982.

Tell us a bit more about your work in Fucked Up? I write a lot of the music and do a lot of the design aspects, so I wanted to see if that work could translate to other bands. I like producing and trying things out with new styles of music.

What have you got coming up for the label in 2011? TEEN.

Where does the future of new music lie? On iPod composers.

Listen to the exclusive One Big Silence playlist here.

onebigsilence.com

Text Milly McMahon

Dry The River - Bible Belt

MADCHESTER

i-DJ: The Warehouse Project

Located in the heart of Manchester - home to a host of the music world's most influential movements - The Warehouse Project is the golden egg event for all good electronic artists.

See more here

The brainchild of good time fanatics Kirsty Smith, Sacha Lord Marchionne and Sam Kandel, the Warehouse Project was founded to pump some life into the then desolate clubland-scapes of Manchester. Blowing up massively within the five years since the project's opening event, WHP prides itself on creating and bringing togther networks of people from all walks of life. Evolving from one-off events to regular residencies held at the city's most reputable venues, the project has headlined the likes of M.I.A, Jamie XX, Aphex Twin and Delphic.

Aiming big, the event organisers and resident DJs aspire to expand the urban rave to new territories and bring in larger crowds. Primarily focused on promoting what they do to those who don't yet know, the trio remain Manchunian-centric, not interested in relocating to the country's capital, as so many other successful eventers have gone on to do. Organising communal space for everyone to get down and experience a whole range of new music, the project creates a platform for fresh talent and like-minded people. The Warehouse Project is the party, enterprise and experience that takes night-life to a whole new level.

i-D Online joined the party, chatting to Kirsty, Sacha and Sam to find out why Manchester is where it's at, right now.

What made you remain in Manchester as opposed to relocating to London like many of the other bigger venues? We are all Mancunians, proud of it, and have amazing relationships with the authorities here and know the ground well. The Warehouse Project team is a network of people, from the street team to the production team, it's really a sum of its parts. Manchester is our home.

What complications and obstructions to development have you come up against whilst developing the project? It's no easy task putting on what is effectively a rave in a city centre that’s for sure! We’ve learned a lot along the way, but now we’ve gained the trust of those around us it's become easier. Each new venture, each new year and each new venue is like starting from scratch really but that’s the exciting bit. The key for us is that the WHP crowd really want it, and show with their feet, while we have that behind us we’ll always find a way to open those doors!

What have been some of the most memorable nights you have previously hosted? Many! Aphex Twin 2007 with gurners was a stand out, as was M.I.A this year... Our Ape nights are amazing and the Minus events are always a massive highlight.

Who are your resident DJ's and why did you choose these musicians specifically?
Krysko – part of the team from years back where we all met at Sankeys, knows WHP so well.
Andro – slightly more experimental, natural fit to the more underground WHP nights.
Greg Lord – great all round DJ, we can put him on with any headliners and he is generally the LAST to leave every night!

What plans for expansion do you have? We are always moving forward, but you can’t just put on a WHP anywhere, there are so many elements that have to be just right... if something comes along and fits all of those points then who knows.

What Manchester based bands and artists do you think will be making it big this year?
Wu Lyf – mega! Everything everything.. fab.

What are the top 5 nights in Manchester you would recommend?
Now Wave – fresh promoters.
Juicy – Joshua Brooks
Ape – at the Apollo out of WHP season.
Naïve Melody – tiny venue, mental atmosphere.
Drop the Mustard – do some great events.

Listen to resident DJ Andro's exclusive playlist here

thewarehouseproject.com

Text Milly McMahon

Lady Chann on shoot

Keep an i-D out for more :)

Roger Eno - Fleeting Smile

i-D online introducing Encounters

Channeling constellations of dream-like beats into pulsing rhythms, Encounters are the lo-fi electronic outfit with experimental values.

Read more here

Studying sound engineering and music production on the same course, Memo Guerra and Eric Breslaur quickly discovered a mutual passion for electronic music and began creating their own material, D.I.Y style. Building a small but loyal following, the duo were then joined by Akkia Neko and Laura Anderson, who both instantly expressed an interest in collaborating on the musical journey, which is today, named in homage to its initial formation Encounters.

Exploring their intrigue and love of anything analogue, the quartet experiment with synths and magnetic tapes. Switching instruments and sampling beats, Encounters work sporadically within their own space. Describing themselves as a production team as opposed to a band, Encounters prefer to "jam things out" when playing live. Expecting no commercial success from their way out left material, the underground collective have remained undiscovered, releasing intermittent homemade music videos spliced together from their favourite VHS family films via YouTube and Myspace. The results feel like moments lost in time. Unusual, retiring and independent, Encounters communicate passion and talent the way all good music should: effortlessly.

When you first began to make music, what was the impact you hoped your sound would have?
Akkia: We just started throwing ideas at eachother which progressed into long pieces of work or unfinished songs, until we felt comfortable with what we were doing. We believe if we enjoy what we're creating, then that will be transmitted and perceived by people listening to us.

Laura: We’re totally aware that Encounters aren’t going to feature on the T4 on the Beach lineup any time soon! But as long as there are some people out there enjoying what we do and finding it inspiring, then great. I personally admire bands like Neu! who had no real commercial success at the time but are often cited as massive influences. That kind of impact means more to me personally.

You are all interested in sound, film, literature, photography, art and design. Who and what inspires the music of Encounters?
Memo: In the case of film and other visual arts, the imagery will inform a sound. The soundtracks of the films themselves are always interesting too, particularly to gain an insight into what the film's composer has chosen to compliment the images.

Eric: We’re so spoilt for choice nowadays that you just move from one inspiration to the next you know? I can stare at paintings by Magritte for a few hours and that will make me write music that captures the essence of surrealism, and then the next moment I’m already deep into an Antonioni film trying to figure out how I could make a musical parallel. I kind of envy people in the old days, where you could just belong to a certain movement and you discovered this whole new world. It’s all very postmodern these days.

What do you get up to when you're just hanging out?
Memo: Drink, eat Indian takeaway, watch funny YouTube clips and just chat.

Encounters' Top 5 Films Of All Time
1. Time of the Gypsies
2. The Science Of Sleep
3. Alphaville
4. 2046
5. Amores Perros

Listen to the exclusive Encounters Mixtape here.

myspace.com/encountersbande

Text Milly McMahon

Original Dry The River - New Ceremony

Dry The River - New Ceremony by lucidonline
Dry The River are a quintet from London, fronted by medical student Peter Liddle. Although they've only been together since August officially, they've already supported Port O'Brien at London's Scala. They count gospel, Bon Iver, Fleet Foxes and Paul Simon as influences.

adidas Y-3 Spring / Summer 2011 Campaign Film

i-ntroducing Spark: i-D Online

i-ntroducing Spark

Brixton born Jess Morgan is the honest lyricist and vocal talent that is 'Spark', the kid with the guitar now signed to Warner Music.

See the exclusive Online acoustic session here

Discovered by Marina (of the Diamonds) Jess 'Sparkle' Morgan has been making music since she can remember, penning her own songs from the tender age of twelve. Initially performing only to intimate gatherings of friends and family, Jess always dreamed big, but hesitated for fear of performing in front of crowds. After being scouted by Marina, the songstress was catapulted into the limelight, supporting The Diamonds on tour. Equipped with a voice that raises hairs and a shy, discerning manner, Spark is now in the front line of music's newest blood. i-D Online played ear to the girl and her guitar for a live session and chat about how she came to be so sure in her own skin.

myspace.com/sparkthemusic

Text Milly Mcmahon
Photography and Film George Harvey

The Science Of Sleep

Lady Chann- Treble To Your Bass

Following on from the anthemic ‘Sticky Situation’ that dropped last summer, Chanelle Williams (aka Lady Chann), is back, bigger and better, with her most powerful and dynamic record to date. ‘Sticky Situation’ came out on Toddla T’s ‘Girls Music’ label and was produced by the UK Garage legend Sticky, now having hooked up with the much talked about newcomers Mojam (producers of Professor Green’s ‘Monster’) and on the newly formed Dun Dem Records, we proudly present ‘Treble To Your Bass’.

Billionaire Boys Club® Season 12 Lookbook

Billionaire Boys Club® Season 12 Lookbook - Promo from Billionaire Boys Club® on Vimeo.

Tiger Beer and Get ME! present

DO IT

FREE GUCCI 2: THE BURRRTISH EDITION COMPILED BY SINDEN IS LIVE!

Download it here

Ice cream, you scream, we all scream for Gucci Mane! In the second Free Gucci mixtape installment, UK producer Sinden has enlisted his fellow Brits - including Tinchy Stryder, Toddla T, Wiley, Hudson Mohawke, Duke Dumont, These New Puritans and more - to reimagine Gucci Mane's The Appeal.

In Free Gucci 2: The Burrrtish Edition, Sinden has created a mixtape with exclusively British artists. His approach was straightforward: rally together the finest producers and rappers from this side of the pond, keeping the format like a rap tape, with authentic beats, but a decidedly British take.

Full Tracklist:

Gucci Time (Feat. Swizz Beats) (Sinden Remix Feat. Tinchy Stryder)
Brand New (Rustie Remix)
Party Animal (Hudson Mohawke Remix)
It's Alive (Feat. Swizz Beats) (FunkinEven Remix)
Remember When (Feat. Ray J) (Terror Danjah Remix Feat. Wiley & Dream Mclean)
O Dog (Feat. Wyclef) (Mosca Remix Feat. Trigga Nom)
Weirdo (Swerve Remix Feat. Ghetts)
Trap Talk (Toddla T Remix Feat. Slick Don)
Dollar Sign (Duke Dumont Remix)
Missing (Melé Remix)
What It's Gonna Be (Scratcha DVA Remix) (Dub)
Grown Man (Feat. Estelle) (Rude Kid Remix)
It's Alive (Feat. Swizz Beats) (The Blessings Remix)
Dollar Sign (These New Puritans Remix)
Haterade (Feat. Nicki Minaj & Pharrell) (Mista Men Remix)

Bonus Beat:
It's Alive (Feat. Swizz Beats) (FunkinEven Remix) (Instrumental)

www.sinden.tv
twitter.com/sinden
myspace.com/graemesinden